Indoor Water Feature

Our last day on Crete and we were woken by water pouring through the ceiling of our apartment. On closer inspection it had happened before. However the moody staff at the Pyrgos Apartments did not seem bothered when I told them. In fact they were unsympathetic when our room did not get cleaned or that we had an army of ants walking through. I realize that it was the end of the season but you have to keep smiling until the last guest leaves if you want to give good customer service.

No Day

Today is Oxi Day. Before you ask we did not spend the whole day saying no to everything! Celebrated throughout Greece on October 28 each year, Okhi Day (also spelled Ohi Day, Oxi Day, or Ochi Day, Greek: Επέτειος του «'Οχι», Anniversary of the "No") commemorates Greek dictator Ioannis Metaxas's (in power from August 4, 1936 until January 29, 1941) refusal of the ultimatum made by Italian dictator Mussolini on October 28, 1940. Metaxas's reply marked the beginning of Greece's participation in World War II. It’s a public holiday and it is commemorated with military, student and union parades. Just about every building has a Greek flag hanging from it. The TV stations broadcast military parades similar to the ones held in Russia which gives the impression that Greece is somehow still stuck in a cold war.

Loukoumades

We went to one of my favourite eateries in town today, located at the beginning of Dikeosinis Street. It’s not your usual restaurant as the place has no name, not that I could see as I had my eyes fixed on the food. I have to warn you that there is a limited choice of what to eat, well that’s an understatement as they only sell one dish, loukoumades - which are deep-fried puffs of dough, drizzled with honey. They are so sweet which means, thank god, you can only eat half a dozen in one sitting. Sorry for the poor food photography - hey I was on holiday and I did not have a home economist with me!

Luna Parks

We took a family trip to Katerina Luna Park by the harbour in Heraklion. In Greece permanent funfairs are called Luna Parks – I have no idea why. The whole trip was very nostalgic because as a child I used to beg my parents to take me to the Luna park in Athens when we lived there. Katerina Luna park is something from another era with retro rides and amusements like this punch ball machine.

Goldfish

Our first eagerly awaited meal of the trip was in a taverna/ouzeri on Mitsotaki Street in Heraklion. When I say it’s on this street the kitchen is but the seating area is across the busiest roads in Crete – Sofokli Venizelou. The waiters dance in and out of the traffic with the plates over to the tables along the sea wall. But don’t let this health and safety at work performance put you off from going as it is a great place for a traditional Greek meze.

I don’t have a name unfortunately but it is the last eatery on the corner. If you are a foreigner (xeno) you will get the tourist menu which is the ubiquitous plastic flick book with garish pictures of food. However if you are Greek the waiter will bring your own order to fill in. A tick box list of about 40 different dishes ranging from melenzanasalata (pureed aubergine and garlic dip), sagnaki a deep fried cheese. Meat and fish (psari) dishes can also be ordered. J was craving some calcium for the baby so we ordered deep fried whitebait and these what can only be described as goldfish!

We are still looking through the reference books trying to work out what they were.

Heraklion October 2006

A whirlwind visit to Crete this time and this was not just time related as the islands was experiencing freak weather conditions. The week before J and I were supposed to leave the BBC were reporting that Chania in the west of Crete was under a state of emergency. Flights were not operating from the airport and boats were kept in port due to Force 10 winds. However we kept reassuring each other that it would pass by the time we got there!

J nearly had her baby early trying to make the flight because of the roadworks on the M25. We were then delayed 6 hours (or was it 8, seemed more like 24) because the airplane had engine trouble. We finally arrive the next morning only to discover that D was not at the airport to collect us. Ever had that feeling that you should never have left home?

Much of the street rerouting has been completed since my last trip to Heraklion. This means that walking around has become easier so I explored the old part of the town though I’m not sure how much longer these buildings will remain.